Note to self: avoid Islamic countries during Ramadan. My time in Brunei has been interesting. I booked into Poni Homestay, and it has been such a pleasure to meet and spend time with the house Mum, Yani. She has really made me feel exceptionally welcome and comfortable.
Yani and I out and about
Cosy digs - Poni Homestay
My room for the week
Rookie mistake, I know, but my homestay is about 30 minutes by car from the main city, Bandar Seri Begawan, which meant that any time I wanted to go anywhere to do the tourist thing it cost me $20 each way. I'm not sorry though, I feel as though my time here in Brunei is exactly as I could have wanted it.
It was nice to be out in the countryside
Brunei is a tiny country of ~500,000 people located on the north-west part of the island of Borneo. It has a long and varied past with wealthy kings that spanned a great part of Borneo until the British, the Spanish and Muslim explorers conquered and then ate away through a series of treaties the greater area of Borneo. In 1984 the kingdom of Brunei Darussalam was born in its current iteration.
Grand Mosque
I did venture into the city on Saturday to take a boat ride around Kampong Ayer, a city built entirely over the water, and to try my luck at getting to see the famed Proboscis Monkey in the wild. I waited on the steps next to the river and managed to find a boat that was happy to take me for a tour. I noticed the occupants of the other boats all had life jackets on. Mine did not have such luxuries. However, after learning that the river is teeming with crocodiles I figured not having a life jacket on would be the least of my worries.
My impromptu tour guide, Zul
Feeling fearless on my boat ride
Kampong Ayer - the village on the water
The local highschool
I did get to see a family of Proboscis Monkeys playing in a nearby tree. They really are weird looking little critters. I didn't get to explore Kampong Ayer on foot, though. My guide just wove his way through the city pointing out different buildings such as the schools, the fire and police stations. I was actually ok with this. The walkways throughout look pretty unsteady and as previously mentioned, there are crocs in them there waters!
A normal monkey
Probiscus Monkey in the wild
Probiscus Monkey up close
I took a wander around the city, visiting the grand mosque (could only look at from the outside) and the history museum. I need to mention that the 'feels like' temp during my walk was sitting at about 42C with 82% humidity. I really needed a drink of water. I made my way to a Jollibees (SE Asian fast food chain) and was promptly told that during Ramadan one could not even drink water in public. The store was open and serving food, but it needed to be taken away and consumed at home.
Museum Exhibit
Jollibees - I wonder how they stay in business being open on Ramadan days
I was absolutely parched by this stage and mentioned that if I didn't have some water I would get very sick. I was then told that I could secretly sip it in a corner. By this stage, my visions of enjoying a wander around town with a stop for lunch completely evaporated and I managed to call a Dart (Brunei Uber) by having someone hotspot me from their phone. Public wifi was not commonly, if at all, available.
I've spent a lot of time just hanging out at my Homestay and taking little walks to the local market. I was taking the opportunity to rest, knowing that I've got a lot of travel ahead of me and was basically biding my time until my flight Tuesday night. I did go to the night markets one night, which was really interesting. All the locals buy their food and line it up on the table ready for when their phone countdown apps chime and it is time to eat at the end of another Ramadan day. I got to try some of the local cuisine. I didn't mind the bananas and cheese, but found a lot of the other food very greasy.
Gadong Night Market
On the Sunday, a couple came to stay overnight who turned out to be long-term travel bloggers (Honeytrek). They mentioned that they were sad that they would miss the open house at the Sultan's palace by a few days as they were catching a nearby ferry to Lombok. Wait, what? I got online and discovered that once a year the Sultan/King opens up his palace (largest living residence for a head of state in the world) to the people of Brunei and visitors for only 3 days. There, you would be treated to a special meal, shake the hands of the King or Queen (depending on your own gender) and explore the amazing house that boasts 1788 rooms and includes 257 bathrooms.
Istana Nural Iman
So I decided to change my flight (for a decent fee) to stay the extra few days to enjoy this rare experience. Alas, I then find out that they are not doing this again this year (it has been closed since Covid). Hmmm...so I get another 2 days just hanging out at my homestay. No worries, Yani invited me to go to the mall with here a couple of times. Anyone who knows me would know that hanging out at a mall is really not my jam, but it is always interesting to hang out with the locals and do what they do. It really was quite an event with young couples walking together and an air of festivity through the place.
Brunei shopping mall
But then, on Tuesday, Yani messages me that the palace will be opening and that she and her friend would take me on Thursday before my evening flight. Hooray!!!
Unfortunately, this ended up being a false rumour and the palace visit was a bust. Not to worry, Yani invited me to go to the mall with her so we went and did some shopping, Brunei-style. The grocery shop was a bit of a trip. I found some avocados to have for breakfast and decided to purchase and donate some salt and pepper to the communal kitchen back at the Homestay. I found the pepper no worries. Shelves and shelves of it. But do you think I could find any salt. I asked around and no-one could understand me. I finally found what I was looking for 4 isles over. I hope future guests appreciate my efforts.
Brunei grocery shop
Working out the local money is always fun
Although Brunei was a pretty staid place to visit, I'm glad I've been. Yani has become a friend and who knows, maybe one day I will get to visit the palace and shake the hand of the Queen... you just never know, right?
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