So, Sumatra. My apologies to all for the delay in my post - It's been great to just sit back for a minute and process what has been an epic journey.
I left Carita Beach after my luxurous stay, hitting the road at sunrise. I made my way to the ferry at Merak Seaport. The ride up the coast was absolutely stunning.
I wasn't sure what I needed to do but soon found a helpful gentleman who went and got my ticket for me and pointed me to where I needed to go in order to board the ferry with my bike. This ferry was enormous and there was plenty of space for all the trucks, cars and bikes. I parked my bike and headed upstairs to the lounge area, where I met a lovely man named Amrulla. He has visited Australia before and welcomed me to sit with his family during the crossing.
Like so many people that I have met, he was quite concerned for me riding alone up Sumatra. I assured him I would be fine. I'd be lying if I didn't share that yes, I was a little apprehensive. I had no idea who I would meet and how people who don't usually see westerners would react to me showing up in their remote little villages.
It's always great making new friends
Suddenly, I was in Sumatra! My first impressions were how wild and undeveloped it was. I actually loved how free and exhilarated I felt riding through the jungle on my way to my first night in Sumatra, Bandar Lampung.
I stopped for a quick lunch at a roadside eatery where I met some gorgeous young ladies and ate delicious noms. The people were so kind and friendly, welcoming me to their wild island of Sumatra.
When I travel, I tend to be quite loyal to Booking.com as I use it enough to get special discounts and deals. For my first night, I stayed at Guest House Riharti Syariah. It was a bit of a wet ride and I was happy to arrive. The first room I was shown didn't have air conditioning. I know I can be a sooky-lala, but being so close to the equator, this was an absolute deal-breaker for me. Anyway, I was informed, through Google Translate, that I could pay an extra $5 (on top of the $9 I had already paid through the app) for air-conditioning. Ok, I was tired and not keen on going out into what had turned into a pretty impressive thunderstorm, so I paid the extra and climed the stairs to my air-conditioned lair.
The next morning, I was up and off in the early morning light. I was just filled with joy to be actually riding through Sumatra. The day was uneventful, in a good way. The roads weren't too bad and I made excellent time to my next stop, Tugumulyo.
I bedded down at Hotel Romli for a grand total of $A5.78. The property was really run down and upon arrival I was informed that I would (again) need to pay another $5 for air-conditioning. I couldn't be bothered to argue with them and just paid to be in comfort.
The room itself wasn't much better, but I had aircon and the bed wasn't too bad
The staff were kind and friendly but oh my word were they loud. There were quite a few young adults 'working' there and there was this one girl, who I think was flirting, that had this awful high pitched laugh. I am very grateful for my noise-cancelling ear buds.
The next morning, I set off for Palembang. I stayed at Hotel Alpha Bandara, which was quite luxurious compared to my last 2 nights, so I decided to stay for 2 nights. When I arrived, I saw that the parking lot was overflowing and lots of people were dressed to the nines for a wedding being held just across from my hotel. The hotel was actually located in a military school barracks, so I felt very safe there. I went for a few little rides around town. The traffic was chaotic, to say the least. I found a gorgeous little cafe just down the street from the barracks where I met the owner who was interesting to talk to.
After a good rest, my next stop was Jambi, another decent sized city of Sumatra. I again, stayed for 2 nights, paying $48.98 for the 2 nights. Yes, a splurge, but the riding could get quite rough and I was finding my rhythm of riding for longer on my riding days and then taking a good break in between. I treated myself to a creambath (where they wash and massage my hair) and it was devine. The girls at the salon were so lovely and lots of fun.
I then travelled on to Pelalawan for a quick overnight stop. I made a quick, very sweaty stop at the Equator monument just outside of Pelalawan. Felt a great sense of accomplishment here. It looks as though the monument could do with a bit of upkeep, but great to see nonetheless.
Next I went on to Pekanbaru. My favourite thing about my trip was getting to meet so many lovely people. Occasionally, I would pull up for a quick cold drink and a bum break, to find the locals looking quite confused that I was there. There was one place I stopped where I said to a young man in the parking lot 'You don't see many westerners around here, hey?' Surprisingly, he spoke some English and replied 'No' and walked away. Ok.
But the majority of the locals I met were so curious and interested in who I am and what I am doing, very proud to show off their home towns and villages. I had a little mishap in Pekanbaru. I decided I would try to mount my bike from the opposite side to where the stand is (someone had parked their scooter really close to mine). Note to self - do not ever do this again! I actually dropped my bike. Fortunately it was just in the car park and lots of bystanders cam running to help me up. Aside from my bruised ego, I also cracked one of my side mirrors. Not to worry, I had both mirrors quickly replaced for $5.
My hotel in Pekanbaru was absolutely lovely. By this stage I was over staying at really shitty little places that insist on me paying extra for basics like air-conditioning. So I sprung for the $20-$25 rooms, which when I think about Australian prices, really is a bargain.
I set out from Pekanbaru, so excited and full of hope. I was making good time and feeling really confident with my riding. I was passing through Suka Maju, about 4.5 hours into my journey when IT happened. I was coming up a hill, travelling about 70klms/hour when a massive pothole appeared out of nowhere and before I knew it, I had hit it. I managed to slow down without too much wobbling, but it became very obvious that my back tyre was wrecked. I was in between towns, so I just started pushing my bike along the highway wondering what was to become of me.
I came to a house set just off the road and decided to ask them where the nearest tyre mechanic might be. A woman and her 2 children emerged from the house as I was walking up, bringing out their own bike. Using Google Translate, I asked about a mechanic. She replied that there was a tyre place just 1klm up the road in the direction I was heading. She then insisted we take photos (lol) and promptly set off with the kids to wherever she was headed. I didn't get any pics, I just wanted to get my tyre to be fixed.
So I pushed my bike, slightly up hill for the klm she had advised. I was quite happy to discover that there was in fact a tyre mechanic where she said there was. I stopped and the mechanic replaced the tyre for me for $10. I was a bit skeptical as to me the rim looked damaged, but he profusely assured me that it was all ok and I would be on my way.
Well, not 15 minutes later, I felt what appeared to me to be the road turning to jelly. At first, I thought the road was slippery and I distinctly remember giving my best stink-eye to some passing riders. By then, I had a terrible wobble up and I had the sinking realisation that I was about to go down. Time really slowed down as I braced, but I felt secure in the fact that I was well protected by my riding gear. My bike skewed to the left and I slid several metres along the bitumen. It happened directly outside a cafe and lots of men came straight over to make sure I was ok. I was fine. I ended up with a slight scrape of my elbow and my knee has been a bit twingey since, but it was great to be able to get up and walk away.
Both of my bike wheels were a mess. Another good thing was there was a bike mechanics straight across the road. One of the workers there managed to wheel my bike across. They then loaded her up and took her to wherever they could get new wheels. I waited for a little while but then decided that I needed to get to a hotel (my riding gear was incredibly hot!!!) and accepted their offer to take me to a nearby hotel.
Hotel Sabiah was absolutely gorgeous. I paid about $50/night but after my spill, it was more than worth it. They had an onsite restaurant (breakfast was included in the room) and a cafe across the parking lot. The room was lovely and I had the most comfortable bed. I decided to stay here for a few nights while I waited for the bike to be repaired and my nerves to settle.
With some of the lovely staff at Hotel Sabia
The young man, Yogi, who helped me with the bike, and I swapped WhatsApp numbers so we could coordinate the return of my bike. All I could do is trust him and that they would do the right thing as far as fixing and returning the bike. By the end of the next day my bike was downstairs in the carpark with two brand new wheels and again new side mirrors, which also were smashed during the tumble. The whole repair cost me $A200. I can't complain at all.
Darman was all of 22 years old and decided to see if I'd be up for a tumble of a different kind. Aside from the fact that I am probably older than his Mum, this wasn't anything I was particularly interested in. However, I have to laugh. I actually received the following messages from him:
So, henceforth, having sex will now be known as being stabbed. It is hilarious, if not a little creepy. When I tried to explain to him what he was saying to me, he incredulously asked if I thought he wanted to murder me. No, young one, I knew exactly what you meant!!!
I really made incredible time as I travelled up Sumatra, accidents aside. At Pekanbaru, I left the northern main highway (Jalan Lintas Sumatra) and took secondary roads across to the southern main highway (Jalan Raya Lintas Utama Sumatera). Oh boy! The roads here made Far North Queensland roads after the wet season look like Melbourne Freeway. All I could do was go forward. There were kilometres and kilometres of just slushy mud! I may have take a few crying breaks along the way, while I questioned every single life choice I have made up until this point. But I perservered and very tired, wet and muddy, I limped into Padan Sidempuan.
I stopped for a quick coffee to perk me up and found myself befriended by a family, who pointed me to a decent hotel 20 minutes down the road at Padangsidimpuan. I had to dig very deep to keep going to get to my refuge for the night. I ordered some food to be delivered and quitely died. There was no wifi available, although it was advertised, which was a bit annoying. When I paid for the room, they didn't have any change and said they would give it to me later (it was about $2.50). However, when I checked out the next morning, there was a different girl at the reception desk who knew nothing about it. I probably would have stayed an extra night if not for the wifi thing and that they ripped me off. I am quite generous with tipping, but it absolutely urks me when people take advantage. Grrr.
Next stop was Hotel Wisma Mangurna. This hotel was absolutely lovely. I was a bit disconcerted that there was no air-conditioning. However, they reassured me I wouldn't need it there and they were right. They have their own strawberry field next to the hotel and restaurant and for breakfast, I enjoyed real bacon (after weeks and weeks of no pork whatsoever) and fresh strawvberry juice. Retta, the host was gorgeous and when I said that I was headed to Lake Toba, she recommended that I stop by Sibeabea, where I would find the tallest Christ the Redeemer statue in the world (even higher than the one in Brazil). This was definitely worth the stop and the winding road down the mountain to the lake where it sits was absolutely breathtaking.
Lake Toba is incredible, definitely one of my now favourite places. I got to stay at a little place called Ruma Kaca Bed and Breakfast. The beautiful host, Tiolina was married to the late grandson of the local King and the property is World Heritage listed with a museum and traditional Batok Village on site. I happened to be there during the Indonesian Independence Day, and I loved seeing all the children and adults celebrate with parades and festivals across the island.
My host, Tiolina, was most welcoming
A very comfortable stay
A little cafe on site
A statue in the museum
Gorgeous batik lodge
I took a few rides across the island and saw some breathtaking views. I will say that it had been a hard journey up Sumatra and by this stage was sorely in need of some pampering, including a good old leg wax. Let me just say that there is nothing like riding up and down the mountains of Samasir Island (in the middle of Lake Toba) feeling the wind running through my hair....on my legs. Lol.
Breathtaking views
After a delightful few days with Tiolina, my last stop before the end of my epic bike trip was to Bukit Lawang - home of the wild orangutans. I set out from Lake Toba and enjoyed the ferry ride across to the mainland with my bike and started my long journey for the day. Well, it wasn't meant to be especially long, but the weather! It poured. I stopped for a yummy lunch and made some new friends in Telagah, and then kept pushing on to Bukit Lawang. Just when I thought the rain couldn't get any harder, it just did. By the time I got to the town where I was staying, my boots were completely full of water.
And this is a good road
As I was following my Google Maps to the Jungle Huts that I had booked, I discovered that I needed to make my way down a very muddy, very slippery track. Fortunately, some people from the hotel were headed there too so just when I was about to give up and turn around, they led me even further down that interminable track to the Huts. There was much joy in my heart for finally arriving.
My cabin was absolutely gorgeous and I even had a princess net (mosquito net) over my bed. Lucky that I had booked 2 nights there as I needed that time to somewhat dry out everything I own. I had a good relax in my cabin and the staff were lovely and helpful.
I wanted to do a short orangutan trek while I was there, so I arranged to go with owner of the accommodation who also did treks on the morning that I was leaving (it was too wet up until that time). We set off quite early in the morning and met a fellow Aussie woman, Helen, who lives part of the year in Northern Sumatra, who would join us. Now, I'm not currently built for trekking, but I was quite proud of how well I did. We walked and looked for honestly hours. We did find a cheeky family of macque monkeys that included some young, which were fun to watch. Well, even with all the looking, we could not find any orangutans that morning. My guide says he has been leading treks for 25 years and that day was one of only a handful of times he hasn't been able to find the orangutans. Oh well, lucky that Northern Sumatra is now a favourite and I'll definitely be back.
My final leg of this epic journey saw me leave Bukit Lawang for Medan. Now, many people had warned me that Medan could be quite dangerous, so I braced myself, not knowing exactly what I would find. I had booked a couple of nights at Roemah 28 hotel, with the plan to sell my bike before my flight on to Nepal. I was pleasantly surprised with Medan. Granted, I only went out in the daytime, but the people I met were kind and friendly. I went out to find a courier company so I that I could post back my riding gear to Kadek and Suma in Bali. The problem was that I had run out of data on my Indonesian Sim Card and was relying on the hotel's wifi.
So when I left the hotel, I wasn't able to reprogram my Google Maps to take me back home. I found the postal place (the first one was closed) by riding around but then realised I had no clue how to get back to my hotel. This lovely woman closed up her juice stand, jumped on her scooter, and led me back to Roemah 28. I tipped her well for her kindness.
Now, selling the bike was a bit of an adventure. That first night after I arrived I discovered I could order a delivery of junk food, which I decided to treat myself with. So I decided to have a big mac. Well, wouldn't you know, I got a decent case of what I believe to be food poisoning and spent the night being very, very sick. The next day was D-day as far as selling my bike goes. Tiolina, back in Lake Toba, has a friend in Medan who was interesting in taking a look at my bike.
So this guy was apparently on his way over and as I was feeling so poorly, I was thinking great, I don't have to go and navigate the dealerships. One of the workers at the hotel bought my helmet for a fair price and was also interested in the bike (which was worth $2000 including the brand new wheels). Anyway, I was hoping to get $1000 for it, at least. It had served me well and I had taken that big spill so there were a few scrapes on it now. Also, as it was registered in Bali, it would need to have the registration changed over, which runs to quite a bit of money.
Well, Tio's friend didn't turn up until the night time. He offered me $400 for it and I laughed. So he says no and goes off. Meanwhile, the hotel worker's friend will buy it for $500. But this friend was taking his time and all I wanted to do was go lie down and sleep after being sick all the previous night. I messaged Tio to let her know I was selling the bike for $500 when the worker's friend turns up. She must have told her mate, who then turned up again saying he'll take it for $500. I didn't want to sell it to him as he had been stringing me along all day. If I knew he wasn't coming until the night, I would have made the effort to go to the dealers.
However, the worker's friend was still an hour away, so I just said take it. I'm tired and I want it all to be over. Well played, old man! You got yourself such an incredible deal. Hmmm.
But I am not too sad. I have had the most incredible time and wouldn't trade it for anything. If it cost me $1500 for the experience, I actually think that is a fair price. I have had an absolute ball and met so many kind and wonderful people.
Im still working out my Insta360...stay tuned!
I am so excited for what I have coming up. Nepal has been a bucket list destination for forever. I have also signed up for a tour - driving a TukTuk from Islamabad to the Chinese border in northern Pakistan!!!!! After having my Indian Visa denied, I've completely changed my travel plans and will now visit Pakistan, Oman and then I'm heading up to the 'Stans' - Kyrgystan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. I am so freaking excited!!!!!
Comments